The rickshaw maneuvered its way down a narrow, winding pathway. Coconut trees lined either sides, and the cottages along the way were painted mustard yellow, fuchsia pink, and bright orange. We came to a stop outside the Blue Matsya, a quaint white cottage with a red tiled roof and blue window shutters. Simple and rustic, cute and comfy, it instantly set the mood for holiday happiness. The little cottage was a stone’s throw away from the water, literally on the beach. There even was a lighthouse further up the coastline, not one of those haunted, dilapidated ones, but a fully functioning, charming black and white column that jutted out from among the rocks.
The place – Kaup (pronounced Ka-poo by the locals). Half an hour away from Manipal on the Konkan coast. With surprisingly clean and deserted beaches, it’s a wonder that this place is still relatively undiscovered. I met my fellow travellers, who had also signed up for the weekend getaway… other adventurous, thrill-seeking folk like myself, and was almost surprised at how effortlessly we got along.
After a meal of local fish with lip-smacking curry and rice, we geared up and set off to hit the waves. Which is the reason we were there in the first place – to learn how to surf!
Surfing isn’t that big in India yet… there are a couple of surf schools in Karnataka, others in Pondicherry and Orissa. The waves aren’t huge, but it’s a good place to learn the ropes if you’re trying it for the first time.
We reached the Shaka Surf club after a short drive down the coast to Kodi Bengre. Run by Ishita and Tushar – a young, enthusiastic couple who discovered surfing during their years in university, and after catching their first wave, never looked back. A couple of years later, they now have their own surf shack and 5 surfboards, and give lessons to wannabe surfers or interested groups.
After some practical lessons on the sand, we velcro-strapped our surfboards to our ankles and headed into the waves. We found out the hard way – surfing is not as easy as it looks! Getting through the surf zone and balancing flat on the board took the better part of an hour, standing on the board was a far cry! But if you got it right, if you paddled just in front of a wave before it broke, you could catch a wave and ride it all the way to the shore, bursting through the foam, speeding and skipping over the water. I even stood up on the board twice, for all of 2 seconds!
For a moment, it feels like freedom and exhilaration and achievement all rolled into one. But then right after that, a big wave comes and knocks you over, pummels you, forces its burning saltiness down your nose and throat, making you aware of its power, and leaves you small and humbled by its force. Yup, the ocean is not something you can mess with!
A couple of hours later, we staggered back to the beach like soldiers returning from battle… exhausted, bruised and battered from fighting the waves. But still in high spirits from the adrenalin rush.
The rest of the evening was spent exploring the university town of Manipal, which had some surprisingly good food, easy on the pocket too! Sealing the deal with Belgian chocolate icecream, it was a perfect end to the day.
Standing on the porch, I could hear the gentle roar of the waves tumbling onto the shore in front of the Blue Matsya. A bright beacon from the lighthouse cut though the darkness every 10 seconds, sweeping its beam over the trees and out over the black waters. Looking up at the sky, the stars were so much brighter than what we see over the city. I breathed in deeply and filled my lungs with the crisp, clean breeze.
The next morning, as I started the long journey back to the concrete jungle, we said our goodbyes with the word ‘Shaka’, a Hawaiian word used by surfers, which means ‘hang loose’ or ‘chill out’, the expression conveying the Aloha spirit of peace, goodwill and friendship. Which, I think, was the perfect sentiment for the trip. Shaka! Let the sea set you free!
Links to Websites:
Surfing – http://www.shakasurfingindia.com/ or https://www.facebook.com/TheShakaSurfClub
Gypsea Trip 