This post was originally written for Zafigo.com – Zafigo is a helpful website for women travellers to explore Asia.
Muscat, the capital of Oman, is a city without skyscrapers and tall glass buildings. Most of the white and dust-coloured houses are 2 storeys high, and the highest building would be 10 storeys. Muscat has some beautiful mosques, the biggest and grandest being the Sultan Qaboos Mosque. My favourite is the Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque, built in the style of Ottoman mosques in Turkey. Unfortunately it is not open to non-muslims, so you can just see it from the outside.
But this post is not about the city, it is about the rocky mountains and deserts and beaches that surround the city! Using Muscat as a base, we ventured out to explore the many natural attractions.
Yitti beach – A 40 minute drive from the city, this is a sandy beach with some craggy rocks rising up. It’s not the best beach for swimming, but you can catch some really nice sunsets here.
Qantab beach – This is my favourite beach for swimming and snorkelling. It comes a little before Yitti beach. The water is clean, you can snorkel and see some fish. Pro tip: Pass the public beach with all the boats and keep going on the dirt track until you reach another secret beach. Hardly anyone comes here.
Bimmah Sinkhole – This was one of the highlights of the trip. A limestone cave roof has fallen in to form a crater, which is filled with water. It takes longer to get here, about 1.5 hours drive, but its worth it. A staircase leads down into a blue swimming hole. Some people climb the walls and jump into the water. I really enjoyed this, as it is the most natural and unique swimming pool ever! The area around it has been developed by the tourism authority, it has toilets and changing rooms and park benches. Pro tip: there are small fish in the water that like to eat dead skin (like the ones in the foot spa), so they will keep pecking at your feet and legs. Wear more clothing so you don’t get eaten by the fish!
Wadi Arbaieen – There are many wadis in Oman. This is in the desert and mountainous areas where water collects from rainfall. Some wadis are seasonal and some have water year round. We went to Wadi Arbaieen, you can wade and swim in the clear fresh water pools, surrounded by mountains. There is even a waterfall.
There are quite big fish in the water, and they really like eating Doritos! You must wear slippers in the water as the bottom is rocky and mossy. Pro tip: it is advisable to come here in a 4×4, as the road is not developed in the last stretch. It is in the area near Bimmah sinkhole but the directions are not very well marked. Here is the Google maps location.
Scuba Diving – Oman is known for its natural beauty underwater as well! Years ago, the first time I went diving in Muscat (Fahal island) I saw a whale shark and a turtle! This time I went diving in Bandar Khayran. We saw a huge stingray, lots of lionfish, moray eels, some jellyfish.
Apparently the Daymaniyat islands are the best place to dive in Oman, so that’s where I will be going next time. The water was a little cold though, in September, but visibility was good.
Bahla fort – For those who want to dive into some history and architecture, check out this UNESCO world heritage site. A two hour drive from Muscat, Bahla is one of the most comprehensive walled cities in the world. The complex is made of three elements: the fort, a citadel oasis and an ancient city wall that spreads over 13 kilometres. The settlements around the fort are still ruined and crumbling, so you can get an idea what the fort looked like before it was restored.
It is quite fun to explore the fort, roaming through the maze-like structure and connected rooms. You can climb up the towers and over the rooftops and have a free run of the place. There is a lack of any information though, there are no signboards, information posters or pamphlets, no tour guides or audio guides to tell you what you are looking at, so we suggest you read up before going there. Entrance fee is 500 Baiza, and it closes by 4pm. There are small fast food restaurants nearby where you can stop for lunch.
The Hidden Village – Misfat Al Abriyeen. An authentic traditional mud village set on a hilltop. An oasis of green trees surround the village, thanks to the falaj (canal) system. There are still locals who live here, so while visiting you must respect their customs and cover your shoulders and knees. Feel like Indiana Jones as you explore the narrow winding lanes with their crumbling mud-brick walls and ancient doorways. Start at the top and work your way down to the bottom, where you will find the Misfah old house, which has been turned into a coffee shop. Sip on a cool lemon mint drink before you make the climb back up. This historical place will take you back to a time when life was simple, yet abundant.
Al Hoota caves – Don’t just explore on land and underwater, go underground too! Estimated to be over 2 million years old, Al Hoota Cave is located at the foot of Jabal Shams mountain. A great family outing, it starts by riding an electric train to the cave entrance. Underground, the cave is 5km long. You can walk along 500metres of it on elevated walkways and stairs. The natural formations are well lit by spotlights, so you can see the stalactites and stalagmites. An Omani guide points out things of interest. At the end of the cave you encounter an underground lake, with blind fish swimming in it. It gets quite crowded with families during the holiday season, so book your tickets online in advance: http://www.alhootacave.om/
Jebel Akhdar – Taking tourism to new heights…. the only thing left is the mountains! Perched 2,000 metres above sea level in the Al Hajar Mountains, Jebel Akhdar offers you some stunning mountain scenery. Again, its a trip that can only be made with a 4 -wheel drive. The highest point, Jebel Shams is around 3,000 metres high. Take a photo at Wadi Ghul, Oman’s Grand Canyon. There are a few luxury resorts on top of the mountain, so you can go have lunch there, or stay a night.
Where to hang out –
1. Al Mouj Marina (The Wave) – Similar to the Dubai Marina, this is a waterfront promenade and popular hangout area with many shops, cafes and restaurants. There are apartments and townhouses that overlook the yacht-filled marina. This is the only area where expats can purchase property. Spend an evening here to soak in the hip and happening vibe.
2. Shatti Al Qurum – Another popular hangout spot. Here shops and restaurants surround the beach area. The public beach is long and wide, and has a nice promenade parallel to it with green lawns and benches.
My favourite restaurant here is Slider Station. Get a table outside so you can enjoy the view and the sea breeze. Do order the Wagyu beef truffle cheese slider, and wash it down with a passionfruit mojito! For those with a sweet tooth, head to Camel Cookies a couple of blocks down. This is where you get melt-in-the-mouth soft pie-shaped cookies with delicious fillings like nutella, caramel and biscotti.
3. Kargeen cafe – This is a quaint ‘Arabian nights’ spot. Rustic tables and benches are shaded by giant trees and lit by colourful hanging lamps. It is mainly known as a shisha joint, but they have a really extensive menu and the food is pretty good! For some authentic Omani cuisine, try the delicious Shuwa (lamb and rice). Wash it down with some Omani black coffee, or fire up that hookah and choose from a crazy variety of flavours. Kargeen is frequented by expats and locals alike, and it is one of my favourite places in Muscat.
Where to stay – There are plenty of hotels in the city centre, but head to the beaches or mountains for something unique and different:
1. Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah – This sprawling complex consists of 3 hotels: Al Waha, Al Bandar and Al Husn. Al Waha is the largest, good for families with kids. It has a private beach, many swimming pools and a lazy river you can float around on. Al Husn is the most exclusive and expensive, while Al Bandar falls in between. If you stay at any of these you can enjoy the restaurants and amenities of the entire complex.
2. Muscat Hills resort – This is personally my favourite resort. Located just next to Shangri-La, this resort is smaller, quieter and has rustic beach huts for accommodation. The private beach is calm, shallow and good for swimming, and you can kayak out to some secret beaches hidden in the rocky inlets. This resort is known for its music scene, local DJs perform on weekends and international DJs perform once a month at their beach bar.
3. Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar – Stay here if you are more of a mountain person than a beach person. It is the highest five star resort in the Middle East, and amongst the highest in the world. Enjoy dramatic canyon views and the weather…. it’s definitely a few degrees cooler up on top!
O-man, what a place! If you are visiting Muscat, skip the malls and the souks… head out to these natural wonders and rugged landscapes to connect with nature!
Gypsea Trip 
Beautiful description of Oman, I have travelled from Musandam to Salalah and Muscat and surrounding several times, have the most beautiful memories of Oman and the Omani people.
Beautiful description of Oman, I have travelled from Musandam to Salalah and Muscat and surrounding several times, have the most beautiful memories of Oman and the Omani people.